Georgia Atsunta Pass Trek
The flower bouquet trek of Georgia
Dates full? Check out our trek in Kyrgyzstan, which climbs to a stunning blue alpine lake!View Ala-Kul trek in Kyrgyzstan
Trek Difficulty
Moderate - Difficult
Trek Duration
7 Days
Highest Altitude
11,581 ft
The flower bouquet trek of Georgia
The Atsunta Pass trek, we believe, is the greatest trek in Georgia. We don’t say this without reason. The trek passes through the most breathtaking mountainscape of the Caucasus Mountains.
The grasslands, for which the trek is famous, are perfectly landscaped. They extend as far as your eyes can reach. The lush greenery of these grasslands, with wildflowers growing almost every inch, is something so unique to the Atsunta Pass trek. These wildflowers extend not for a few hundred metres but for kilometres together!
Nestled in these grasslands are the charming Georgian villages that give you an insight into the culture. At Omalo and Dartlo, you stay in these villages, experience the warm hospitality and delicious local food.
In addition to the villages, the ruins of ancient fortresses decorate the entire remote trail. These are not just heritage but history, many centuries old. While you marvel at these towers jutting out of the grasslands, at Dartlo, you even get to explore one.
The trek is open only for a short window, from July to September. This is when the snow and rain are less, making the pass accessible. The meadows are at their greenest in July and transition to golden towards September.
The thrill of climbing the high Atsunta Pass is pure adventure. Not many treks in Europe give you the high of a pass crossing as much as the Atsunta Pass. It is no less than any high-altitude Himalayan pass crossing. The landscape shifts dramatically from lush green grasslands to moraine terrain. The changes in the scenery during the pass crossing are stunning.
The drive before and after the trek are as thrilling as the trek itself. You drive to the country parts of Georgia on the bone-jarring dirt tracks. But the scenery on both sides compensates for that. You wouldn’t want to close your eyes, even for a second. The drive and the trek combined give you a unique experience of crossing a mountain pass before, during, and after the trek. This is a rarity on any trek.
Most people have not heard of Georgia, but when you get there, you will be somewhat taken aback. Georgia in itself is worth visiting. The history, tradition, and culture are vibrant. Tbilisi, the capital, is modern and yet holds on to its deep roots. Theatre, music, and the arts are thriving. There is a lot of heritage to see and discover. The food is delicious and wonderful. Georgians are extremely warm and friendly. For us Indians, it is amazing how affordable everything is.
Please note that the experience of this trek will be different from a typical Indiahikes experience:
- The trek will be run in an assisted Do-It-Yourself (DIY) style: This means we are going to be doing the trek all by ourselves, without the regular Indiahikes support team. In terms of safety, our highly trained Trek Leaders will be with you. You will not have to carry any tents or sleeping bags but you have to help with cooking meals and pitching tents, including toilet tents.
- The food will be different: You may not find your usual Indiahikes food. Instead, you will be served good Georgian cuisine. On camp days, the food will be Indian.
- Apart from these, you can expect to see our own tents, our toilet tents and our Green Trails practices.
The Atsunta Pass trek, we believe, is the greatest trek in Georgia. We don’t say this without reason. The trek passes through the most breathtaking mountainscape of the Caucasus Mountains.
The grasslands, for which the trek is famous, are perfectly landscaped. They extend as far as your eyes can reach. The lush greenery of these grasslands, with wildflowers growing almost every inch, is something so unique to the Atsunta Pass trek. These wildflowers extend not for a few hundred metres but for kilometres together!
Atsunta Pass - Complete Trek Information
We have always wanted trekkers to be well-informed before they go on a High-Altitude trek. Knowledge is the difference between a safe trek and a dangerous one. It’s also the difference between a wholesome experience and a superficial experience.
Use this section to learn about the Atsunta Pass trek. It has in-depth information about each day of the trek, what to expect, and how you need to prepare for it. Many years of expertise have gone into this content. Trekkers find that extremely useful.
Refer this chart to get an idea of altitude gain or loss on each day of the trek
Day 1
Drive from Tbilisi to Omalo
Pick-up point: Freedom Square, Tbilisi | Pick-up time: 9 am | Drive distance: 186 km
The cost of an SUV (about GEL 450 per SUV) will be shared equally amongst trekkers. The stay will be arranged in a guest house at Omalo.
Day 2
Trek from Omalo to Dartlo
Trek Distance: 12.5 km | Duration: 4½ hours | Altitude gain/loss : 6100 ft to 5944 ft via 7,500 ft
What to expect: Initial climb of 4.5 km to Ghele, followed by a gentle 7 km descent on a motorable road.
Day 3
Trek from Dartlo to Girevi
Trek Distance: 15 km | Duration: 5-6 hours | Altitude gain: 5944 ft to 6745 ft
What to expect: Flattish walk on a motorable road, except for a slight climb outside Girevi.
Day 4
Trek from Girevi to Atsunta Base Camp
Trek Distance: 21 km | Duration: 10-11 hours | Altitude gain: 6745 ft to 9183 ft
What to expect: Gradually ascending trail, with some short sharp climbs in between. A long climb towards the end.
Day 5
Trek from Atsunta Base Camp to Khidotani via Atsunta Pass
Trek Distance: 11.1 km | Duration: 7 hours | Altitude gain and loss: 9183 ft to 8694 ft via 11,581 ft
What to expect: Stiff climb to the pass. A sharp descent to the grasslands followed by a gently undulating walk over the meadows.
Day 6
Trek from Khidotani to Mutso and drive to Shatili
Trek Distance: 8 km | Altitude loss: 8694 ft to 4655 ft | Drive distance: 12.5 km | Drive duration: 30 minutes
What to expect: Steep descent to the river followed by a gentle walk to Mutso/Shatili on a motorable road
Day 7
Drive from Shatili to Tbilisi
Drive distance: 150 km | Drop-off point: Freedom Square, Tbilisi | Drop-off time: 4 pm to 7 pm
Refer this chart to get an idea of altitude gain or loss on each day of the trek
IMPORTANT POINTS
- Keep at least 3 buffer days in your travel plan. One before the trek, when you arrive at Tbilisi, two days after your trek. This is because the Atsunta Pass trail is susceptible to heavy rain, which could delay your return from the trek.
For buffer day, we will charge only if we use it on the trek. The charges are €80 (approx. GEL 270). You will have to pay this in cash to your Trek leader on the last day of the trek. We accept both Euros and GEL. Keep this cash in hand. - This trek will be run in a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) style. This means we are going to be doing the trek all by ourselves, without the regular Indiahikes support team. You have to help with cooking meals and pitching tents, including toilet tents. You will not have to carry any tents or sleeping bags, but you will have to work together with the team.
- Expect the experience to be different from a typical Indiahikes experience. In terms of safety, our highly trained Trek Leaders will be with you. You can expect to see our own tents, our toilet tents and our Green Trails practices.
In terms of food, you may not find your usual Indiahikes food. You will not find Gulab Jamun after crossing the pass. :P Instead, you will be served good Georgian cuisine. On camp days, the food will be Indian. - Given that it's an international trek, you might have more questions. Head over to our FAQ section.
Day 1
Drive from Tbilisi to Omalo
Pick-up point: Freedom Square, Tbilisi | Pick-up time: 9 am | Drive distance: 186 km
The cost of an SUV (about GEL 450 per SUV) will be shared equally amongst trekkers. The stay will be arranged in a guest house at Omalo.
Day 2
Trek from Omalo to Dartlo
Trek Distance: 12.5 km | Duration: 4½ hours | Altitude gain/loss : 6100 ft to 5944 ft via 7,500 ft
What to expect: Initial climb of 4.5 km to Ghele, followed by a gentle 7 km descent on a motorable road.
Day 3
Trek from Dartlo to Girevi
Trek Distance: 15 km | Duration: 5-6 hours | Altitude gain: 5944 ft to 6745 ft
What to expect: Flattish walk on a motorable road, except for a slight climb outside Girevi.
Day 4
Trek from Girevi to Atsunta Base Camp
Trek Distance: 21 km | Duration: 10-11 hours | Altitude gain: 6745 ft to 9183 ft
What to expect: Gradually ascending trail, with some short sharp climbs in between. A long climb towards the end.
Day 5
Trek from Atsunta Base Camp to Khidotani via Atsunta Pass
Trek Distance: 11.1 km | Duration: 7 hours | Altitude gain and loss: 9183 ft to 8694 ft via 11,581 ft
What to expect: Stiff climb to the pass. A sharp descent to the grasslands followed by a gently undulating walk over the meadows.
Day 6
Trek from Khidotani to Mutso and drive to Shatili
Trek Distance: 8 km | Altitude loss: 8694 ft to 4655 ft | Drive distance: 12.5 km | Drive duration: 30 minutes
What to expect: Steep descent to the river followed by a gentle walk to Mutso/Shatili on a motorable road
Day 7
Drive from Shatili to Tbilisi
Drive distance: 150 km | Drop-off point: Freedom Square, Tbilisi | Drop-off time: 4 pm to 7 pm
IMPORTANT POINTS
Keep at least 3 buffer days in your travel plan. One before the trek, when you arrive at Tbilisi, two days after your trek. This is because the Atsunta Pass trail is susceptible to heavy rain, which could delay your return from the trek. For buffer day, we will charge only if we use it on the trek. The charges are €80 (approx. GEL 270). You will have to pay this in cash to your Trek leader on the last day of the trek. We accept both Euros and GEL. Keep this cash in hand.
This trek will be run in a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) style. This means we are going to be doing the trek all by ourselves, without the regular Indiahikes support team. You have to help with cooking meals and pitching tents, including toilet tents. You will not have to carry any tents or sleeping bags, but you will have to work together with the team.
Expect the experience to be different from a typical Indiahikes experience. In terms of safety, our highly trained Trek Leaders will be with you. You can expect to see our own tents, our toilet tents and our Green Trails practices. In terms of food, you may not find your usual Indiahikes food. You will not find Gulab Jamun after crossing the pass. :P Instead, you will be served good Georgian cuisine. On camp days, the food will be Indian.
Given that it's an international trek, you might have more questions. Head over to our FAQ section.
Day 1: Get to Omalo
Today is the start of your big trek to Atsunta pass. It starts with first getting to Omalo, the base of your trek.
Omalo is in the heart of the Tusheti National Park — which means you are getting to the most picturesque region of Georgia on the first day of your trek.
In Georgia, there are several mountain regions. But out of the many, three of them bowl people over for their beauty. Tusheti, Khevsureti and Svaneti. On this trek, you are going to start in Tusheti and end up in Khevsureti, which means you cover two of the three most beautiful regions of Georgia.
Getting to Omalo is a whole day’s drive (about 7-8 hours), a good part of it over a non-existent 72 km dirt track between Alvani and Omalo — but the jaw-dropping sceneries make up for every discomfort you face. You also cross the famous Abano Pass on the way, the highest motorable pass in Georgia.
Tbilisi to Alvani (110 km)
Your first task is to get to Central Bus Station in Tbilisi. From Freedom Square, take the metro to Isani Metro Station (approx. GEL 0.50), get off, cross the road, get to the intersection on the other side (facing the hill) and take a bus from there. Use Google Maps to see which bus goes to the Central Bus Station. We used No 71. It is hardly 7-8 mins to the Central Bus Station.
From Central Bus Station, take the minibus to Alvani. It leaves at 9.10 am. Get there an hour earlier because that’s the only bus that plies to Alvani. It gets crowded with trekkers to Omalo and even local folk. The bus has only 18 seats. Among the 18, 3 members will have to sit on the aisle in a makeshift chair attached to the main seat (no backrest). You could be one of them if you don’t get there early enough.
Note (if you’re trekking on your own):
- From Freedom Square it takes about 45 minutes to reach Central Bus Stand, all stops and changes included. The Central Bus Station is also called the Ortachala Central Bus Station.
- For the further journey from Alvani to Omalo, it makes sense to hook up with other trekkers on the minibus. After reaching Alvani you are unlikely to get any travel partners.
Alvani to Omalo (72 km)
The road to Alvani heads out in the direction of the airport, crossing it, before turning right roughly about 12.5 km after the airport.
In about 45 minutes the road touches the foothills of the Caucasian mountains. The road gently meanders through the beautiful folds of the foothills before getting to Alvani in about 3 hours.
Numerous SUVs are waiting for passengers of the Alvani bus. Your bus driver usually helps you by hooking you up with drivers of the SUVs. It costs approx. GEL 225 per SUV to Omalo. SUVs usually accommodate between 4 and 6 passengers, so the cost can be shared.
It is a 72 km dirt track to Omalo. The initial stretch navigates through forests. Two hours of a roller coaster ride later, the road suddenly bursts out into meadows.
The sight leaves your senses stunned. Rolling lush green meadows with snow patches sweep the landscape. It is an endless gaze of green until the horizon where hills in the distance meet.
The SUVs continue to climb through the meadows in a series of switchbacks, crossing the Abano Pass at 2,850 meters in the next half hour. The road stays a dirt track but is no longer the bone-jarring ride.
Across the pass, the road descends quickly, entering a cluster of silver birch trees before finally descending towards the Akhieti River. About 15 minutes from the river look out for your first sight of an old Georgian village, Khiso, on your right.
From Khiso, it is another 40-minute climb to Omalo, entering the meadows again.
Omalo, from a distance is stunning with its pretty houses stretched out over the meadows. It gets prettier as you get closer.
Note:
- Omalo is split into two parts. Lower and Upper Omalo. Lower Omalo is cheaper and frankly, offers better views. The guesthouses may not be as fancy as Upper Omalo, but they make up for it with their views.
- A room at Lower Omalo costs about approx. GEL 56, with a meal at GEL 22. Breakfast costs GEL 15. You can also opt for a smaller lunch or dinner at GEL 15. Georgian meals are usually very filling, so you could opt for a smaller meal.
- If you need guides or horses, Omalo is a good place to find them. Here, the rates for horses are approx. GEL 56 per day. Guides charge GEL 112 per day.
- From Omalo to Shatili the charges include the total number of trekking days plus two days for their return. You don’t have to pay extra charges for their food, stay or tents.
- Horses always need to travel with a guide (A guide manages the horse, as well as takes you on the trek — so it is a dual function). One guide can easily manage a team of horses. For larger groups, it makes sense to take horses from Omalo in case you wish to offload your backpacks or ride a horse when you feel tired.
- All the costs given here are approximate numbers.
Today is the start of your big trek to Atsunta pass. It starts with first getting to Omalo, the base of your trek.
Omalo is in the heart of the Tusheti National Park — which means you are getting to the most picturesque region of Georgia on the first day of your trek.
In Georgia, there are several mountain regions. But out of the many, three of them bowl people over for their beauty. Tusheti, Khevsureti and Svaneti. On this trek, you are going to start in Tusheti and end up in Khevsureti, which means you cover two of the three most beautiful regions of Georgia.
Getting to Omalo is a whole day’s drive (about 7-8 hours), a good part of it over a non-existent 72 km dirt track between Alvani and Omalo — but the jaw-dropping sceneries make up for every discomfort you face. You also cross the famous Abano Pass on the way, the highest motorable pass in Georgia.
Tbilisi to Alvani (110 km)
Your first task is to get to Central Bus Station in Tbilisi. From Freedom Square, take the metro to Isani Metro Station (approx. GEL 0.50), get off, cross the road, get to the intersection on the other side (facing the hill) and take a bus from there. Use Google Maps to see which bus goes to the Central Bus Station. We used No 71. It is hardly 7-8 mins to the Central Bus Station.
From Central Bus Station, take the minibus to Alvani. It leaves at 9.10 am. Get there an hour earlier because that’s the only bus that plies to Alvani. It gets crowded with trekkers to Omalo and even local folk. The bus has only 18 seats. Among the 18, 3 members will have to sit on the aisle in a makeshift chair attached to the main seat (no backrest). You could be one of them if you don’t get there early enough.
Note (if you’re trekking on your own):
- From Freedom Square it takes about 45 minutes to reach Central Bus Stand, all stops and changes included. The Central Bus Station is also called the Ortachala Central Bus Station.
- For the further journey from Alvani to Omalo, it makes sense to hook up with other trekkers on the minibus. After reaching Alvani you are unlikely to get any travel partners.
Alvani to Omalo (72 km)
The road to Alvani heads out in the direction of the airport, crossing it, before turning right roughly about 12.5 km after the airport.
In about 45 minutes the road touches the foothills of the Caucasian mountains. The road gently meanders through the beautiful folds of the foothills before getting to Alvani in about 3 hours.
Numerous SUVs are waiting for passengers of the Alvani bus. Your bus driver usually helps you by hooking you up with drivers of the SUVs. It costs approx. GEL 225 per SUV to Omalo. SUVs usually accommodate between 4 and 6 passengers, so the cost can be shared.
It is a 72 km dirt track to Omalo. The initial stretch navigates through forests. Two hours of a roller coaster ride later, the road suddenly bursts out into meadows.
The sight leaves your senses stunned. Rolling lush green meadows with snow patches sweep the landscape. It is an endless gaze of green until the horizon where hills in the distance meet.
The SUVs continue to climb through the meadows in a series of switchbacks, crossing the Abano Pass at 2,850 meters in the next half hour. The road stays a dirt track but is no longer the bone-jarring ride.
Across the pass, the road descends quickly, entering a cluster of silver birch trees before finally descending towards the Akhieti River. About 15 minutes from the river look out for your first sight of an old Georgian village, Khiso, on your right.
From Khiso, it is another 40-minute climb to Omalo, entering the meadows again.
Omalo, from a distance is stunning with its pretty houses stretched out over the meadows. It gets prettier as you get closer.
Note:
- Omalo is split into two parts. Lower and Upper Omalo. Lower Omalo is cheaper and frankly, offers better views. The guesthouses may not be as fancy as Upper Omalo, but they make up for it with their views.
- A room at Lower Omalo costs about approx. GEL 56, with a meal at GEL 22. Breakfast costs GEL 15. You can also opt for a smaller lunch or dinner at GEL 15. Georgian meals are usually very filling, so you could opt for a smaller meal.
- If you need guides or horses, Omalo is a good place to find them. Here, the rates for horses are approx. GEL 56 per day. Guides charge GEL 112 per day.
- From Omalo to Shatili the charges include the total number of trekking days plus two days for their return. You don’t have to pay extra charges for their food, stay or tents.
- Horses always need to travel with a guide (A guide manages the horse, as well as takes you on the trek — so it is a dual function). One guide can easily manage a team of horses. For larger groups, it makes sense to take horses from Omalo in case you wish to offload your backpacks or ride a horse when you feel tired.
- All the costs given here are approximate numbers.
Day 2: Omalo to Dartlo
Trek Distance: 12.5 km | Duration: 4½ hours
Initial climb of 4.5 km to Ghele, followed by a gentle 7 km descent on a motorable road.
Dartlo is a world heritage village. So getting it is exciting. On the way, look out for the clearing of Kue just a few hundred meters below Upper Omalo. Ghele, the highest point of the day's trek is another spectacular open clearing with wildflowers growing everywhere. The stretch between Kue and Ghele runs through very old Caucasian Pines.
Omalo to Ghele (4.5 km)
Take the trail to the left of Tishe Hostel. It quickly climbs past the last houses of lower Omalo.
Hug the big wooden fenced building to the left until you get to the motorable road to Dartlo. Cut across the road and trudge along the foot trail that runs past the signpost.
The trail climbs steeply towards Upper Omalo while the motorable road to Dartlo climbs through a series of switchbacks on your right. The foot trail approaches the first guest houses of Upper Omalo from behind.
In Upper Omalo you’ll find a big square in the centre of the village. Look for a water tap on the left of the square to fill drinking water. Fill up here because the next water source is only after the big climb to Ghele.
From the square continue on the motorable road to Dartlo. The road climbs out of the last houses of Upper Omalo within minutes.
In five minutes the motorable road tops up and begins to descend. Look for a foot trail that veers off the road to your left just after the signpost. Take the trail and continue along as it cuts through the motorable road a few times before bottoming out in the exquisite clearing of Kue.
Kue is a clearing that stuns you even before you get there. From higher up on the trail, the big clearing is lined with pine trees on all sides, and in the middle, a lush green patch invites horses and cows. Take a breather here. You’ll need to catch your breath for the next one hour is a big climb to Ghele, 3 km away.
Take the trail that cuts through the clearing directly ahead of you with the pine trees to your right. A signboard at the bottom of Kue points you in the right direction. The trail climbs out of the clearing, enters a cluster of pine trees, veers left and regains the altitude of Upper Omalo in about half an hour.
As you climb, look out for the scenery on your left. You’ll soon see the impressive towers of Omalo standing tall on the ridges. They stand out against the emptiness of the valley behind them.
After a last glimpse of the towers, the trail turns right and enters another cluster of Caucasian pines. The fresh scent of these pines keeps you company through the climb! The trail veers left and then forges straight ahead before popping out on the motorable road to Dartlo.
This leaves the big climb behind you. The rest of the trail, around one kilometre long, ascends gently along the motorable road, until it turns right and opens up at the clearing of Ghele.
Ghele is another visual delight. Ghele is pass and a junction of sorts. It is from here that you see mountains from another side of the range for the first time. The Pirikita range climbs sharply from Ghele, with the early hills forming undulating meadows on your left. Below and to your right, lovely wildflowers grow in gay abandon! Trails to the village of Dikolo start straight ahead, cutting across the wildflowers.
Ghele to Dartlo (7 km)
Resume your trek on the motorable road to your left. The road gradually descends to the river and Dartlo.
About a kilometre down the road from Ghele is a water spot on the left — the only one after Upper Omalo. The water is clear, cool and refreshing. Fill your bottles because you still have about an hour and a half’s descent to Dartlo.
An hour from the water source, a big stream cuts across the road, which you can easily cross over. The stream signals your first views of the ancient Dartlo village. You catch your first glimpse of Dartlo, perched atop a large pasture, just at the bend before the stream.
Half an hour later, spot a bridge over the Alazani river. This is your entrance to Dartlo.
To enter Dartlo, do not continue on the road. Take the foot trail just past the board that lays out the Tushetian visitor's rules and regulations. Then cross the second wooden bridge just below the outer tower of Dartlo.
Dartlo is an ancient Tushetian village more than 6 centuries old. The houses of Dartlo are from that period. Walking through Dartlo, you not only get a glimpse of true Georgian culture, but you step back in time — a history unknown to modern mankind.
For campers, there are flat grounds just next to the river. For food, you could head to the many guest houses at Dartlo. They double up as eateries. There is also a public water tap at the foot of Dartlo not too far away from the towers.
In the evening, climb up to Kavavlo, the impressive towers and ruins that watch over Dartlo. Kavavlo is a good 200 m (700 ft) above Dartlo, nearly an hour’s climb. The climb is heady as it initially meanders through wild thickets, and later over impressive views of the entire Dartlo region. There’s a cafe and a water spot at Kavavlo.
The route to Kavavlo starts at the foot of Dartlo, just opposite the public tap. Climb up to the top of the village, and gain access to the main shepherds’ trail as it traverses above Dartlo. You’ll find the familiar white and red markings signalling the trail. Follow the markings until Kavavlo.
Dartlo is a world heritage village. So getting it is exciting. On the way, look out for the clearing of Kue just a few hundred meters below Upper Omalo. Ghele, the highest point of the day's trek is another spectacular open clearing with wildflowers growing everywhere. The stretch between Kue and Ghele runs through very old Caucasian Pines.
Omalo to Ghele (4.5 km)
Take the trail to the left of Tishe Hostel. It quickly climbs past the last houses of lower Omalo.
Hug the big wooden fenced building to the left until you get to the motorable road to Dartlo. Cut across the road and trudge along the foot trail that runs past the signpost.
The trail climbs steeply towards Upper Omalo while the motorable road to Dartlo climbs through a series of switchbacks on your right. The foot trail approaches the first guest houses of Upper Omalo from behind.
In Upper Omalo you’ll find a big square in the centre of the village. Look for a water tap on the left of the square to fill drinking water. Fill up here because the next water source is only after the big climb to Ghele.
From the square continue on the motorable road to Dartlo. The road climbs out of the last houses of Upper Omalo within minutes.
In five minutes the motorable road tops up and begins to descend. Look for a foot trail that veers off the road to your left just after the signpost. Take the trail and continue along as it cuts through the motorable road a few times before bottoming out in the exquisite clearing of Kue.
Kue is a clearing that stuns you even before you get there. From higher up on the trail, the big clearing is lined with pine trees on all sides, and in the middle, a lush green patch invites horses and cows. Take a breather here. You’ll need to catch your breath for the next one hour is a big climb to Ghele, 3 km away.
Take the trail that cuts through the clearing directly ahead of you with the pine trees to your right. A signboard at the bottom of Kue points you in the right direction. The trail climbs out of the clearing, enters a cluster of pine trees, veers left and regains the altitude of Upper Omalo in about half an hour.
As you climb, look out for the scenery on your left. You’ll soon see the impressive towers of Omalo standing tall on the ridges. They stand out against the emptiness of the valley behind them.
After a last glimpse of the towers, the trail turns right and enters another cluster of Caucasian pines. The fresh scent of these pines keeps you company through the climb! The trail veers left and then forges straight ahead before popping out on the motorable road to Dartlo.
This leaves the big climb behind you. The rest of the trail, around one kilometre long, ascends gently along the motorable road, until it turns right and opens up at the clearing of Ghele.
Ghele is another visual delight. Ghele is pass and a junction of sorts. It is from here that you see mountains from another side of the range for the first time. The Pirikita range climbs sharply from Ghele, with the early hills forming undulating meadows on your left. Below and to your right, lovely wildflowers grow in gay abandon! Trails to the village of Dikolo start straight ahead, cutting across the wildflowers.
Ghele to Dartlo (7 km)
Resume your trek on the motorable road to your left. The road gradually descends to the river and Dartlo.
About a kilometre down the road from Ghele is a water spot on the left — the only one after Upper Omalo. The water is clear, cool and refreshing. Fill your bottles because you still have about an hour and a half’s descent to Dartlo.
An hour from the water source, a big stream cuts across the road, which you can easily cross over. The stream signals your first views of the ancient Dartlo village. You catch your first glimpse of Dartlo, perched atop a large pasture, just at the bend before the stream.
Half an hour later, spot a bridge over the Alazani river. This is your entrance to Dartlo.
To enter Dartlo, do not continue on the road. Take the foot trail just past the board that lays out the Tushetian visitor's rules and regulations. Then cross the second wooden bridge just below the outer tower of Dartlo.
Dartlo is an ancient Tushetian village more than 6 centuries old. The houses of Dartlo are from that period. Walking through Dartlo, you not only get a glimpse of true Georgian culture, but you step back in time — a history unknown to modern mankind.
For campers, there are flat grounds just next to the river. For food, you could head to the many guest houses at Dartlo. They double up as eateries. There is also a public water tap at the foot of Dartlo not too far away from the towers.
In the evening, climb up to Kavavlo, the impressive towers and ruins that watch over Dartlo. Kavavlo is a good 200 m (700 ft) above Dartlo, nearly an hour’s climb. The climb is heady as it initially meanders through wild thickets, and later over impressive views of the entire Dartlo region. There’s a cafe and a water spot at Kavavlo.
The route to Kavavlo starts at the foot of Dartlo, just opposite the public tap. Climb up to the top of the village, and gain access to the main shepherds’ trail as it traverses above Dartlo. You’ll find the familiar white and red markings signalling the trail. Follow the markings until Kavavlo.
Day 3: Dartlo to Girevi
Trek Distance: 15 km | Duration: 5-6 hours
Flattish walk on a motorable road, except for a slight climb outside Girevi.
Today’s trek is almost totally on the road until the last stretch to Girevi. It is the easiest day on the trek with no ascents or descents. You gain barely 200 m (700 ft) the entire day. Spend the day soaking in the scenery and the culture of Georgia.
Dartlo to Cheso
Start by walking past the campsites of Dartlo onto the motorable road to Girevi. Outside Dartlo, the road takes a turn to give you a superb view of the Alazani river gently swerving over grassy banks.
Further ahead, the road passes small shepherds’ settlements on the other bank. The shepherds usually go about their work nonchalantly as you pass by. The absence of women in such settlements is interesting.
As you trek further, the impressive Pirikita range towers to your left, giving you grand views of its green folds.
An hour and fifteen minutes later the road turns right exposing a long beautiful curve. Nestled over a small flattish mound is a solitary shepherds’ hut. The setting is beautifully picturesque!
As the road completes the “C”, it turns sharply to the right. You reach a big stream gushing over the road. You have no option but to ford the stream on foot. Take off your boots and feel the cool waters run through your toes. The stream is just about shin-deep.
Half an hour after you’ve crossed the stream, the road again curves to the right, giving you the first views of Cheso village. Like other ancient villages on the trail, Cheso is a marvel to look at from a distance.
As you approach Cheso, there is another gushing stream over the road that needs fording. You could avoid it by climbing up to the village and crossing over a wooden bridge. This way, you get to visit the village too, a welcome break with enough cafes to take a quick bite.
Cheso to Pharsma
Multiple paths lead out of the village back to the road. After a quick break, take any of them and continue trekking.
Impressive towers rise from the ridge above Cheso. The road from Cheso curves left getting to the bottom of the ridge on which the towers stand.
As the road circumvents the end of the ridge above Cheso, the scenery takes on a new form. The valley opens up. The steep flanks of the Pirikita range give way to gentler drops. You see more snow patches on the other bank, which soon turns meadowy.
It is no surprise that there are more shepherds’ huts and flocks of sheep on the other side of the river. It is another hour to Pharsma, and the picture-perfect scenery stays with you all along.
Fifteen minutes before Pharsma, look out for another set of magnificent towers on the other side of the river.
The Pharsma you see close to the trail is just two cafes spread out over meadows — a good spot to rest and refill your water bottle. A third Cafe Beso is high up on the hillside next to an ancient building.
The real Pharsma village is much above the road, nestled among the ancient ruins. You can’t see the village from the road. However, as the road continues towards Girevi, look back to catch a sight of the Pharsma village. Some trekkers do take a detour and climb up the village, but it is mostly unnecessary. The villages of Dartlo and Girevi give trekkers a similar experience.
Pharsma to Girevi
A kilometre outside Pharsma, the motorable road abruptly ends just as you catch your first glimpse of Girevi. From afar, Girevi looks warm and inviting, snuggled in the lap of a vast meadow.
From the end of the road, the foot trail traverses the very edge of the river. While the stony path weaves in and out just above the river, it doesn’t pose any risk. The section doesn’t last more than 200 meters.
After this, the trail climbs quickly into the meadows of Girevi. There are flat camping grounds between the two culverts that run parallel to the Girevi village. If you are not camping, continue to the village until you find a familiar yellow signpost that signals the start of the village.
There are a bunch of guesthouses on either side of the culvert. The real Girevi village is behind the guest houses.
Girevi is a shepherds’ settlement, so expect to see cows and sheep grazing about. The villagers also grow their greens in their backyards.
We must warn you, Girevi is notorious for its dogs that often bark and growl at visitors. Be careful around the dogs. Always carry a hiking pole with you. Shoo away any dog that gets uncomfortably close with a gesture of picking up a stone.
In the evening, climb to the top of Girevi and get on the trail to Atsunta Pass. Walk towards the towers and then look back towards Girevi. This gives you a perfect picture of Girevi and how wonderfully it is landscaped.
Note 1:
- It is important to register yourself with the border security post that is behind and below Girevi. It is a big white fabricated structure with the Georgian flag and the Border Security flag fluttering over it.
- At this post, you will be asked for your passport. They will issue a slip of paper that allows you to continue on the trek. You will have to show this pass at all checkpoints on the trek.
- Get this paperwork done the evening you arrive at Girevi. It takes about 20-30 minutes for all formalities to be completed. Usually, no questions are asked of you — even though the guards appear formal.
Note 2:
- At Girevi, a bed costs approx. GEL 25-30 with each meal at GEL 15. At some guest houses, a bed may cost GEL 45-55.
- No pack horses are available at Girevi, even though you see plenty of them grazing about.
Today’s trek is almost totally on the road until the last stretch to Girevi. It is the easiest day on the trek with no ascents or descents. You gain barely 200 m (700 ft) the entire day. Spend the day soaking in the scenery and the culture of Georgia.
Dartlo to Cheso
Start by walking past the campsites of Dartlo onto the motorable road to Girevi. Outside Dartlo, the road takes a turn to give you a superb view of the Alazani river gently swerving over grassy banks.
Further ahead, the road passes small shepherds’ settlements on the other bank. The shepherds usually go about their work nonchalantly as you pass by. The absence of women in such settlements is interesting.
As you trek further, the impressive Pirikita range towers to your left, giving you grand views of its green folds.
An hour and fifteen minutes later the road turns right exposing a long beautiful curve. Nestled over a small flattish mound is a solitary shepherds’ hut. The setting is beautifully picturesque!
As the road completes the “C”, it turns sharply to the right. You reach a big stream gushing over the road. You have no option but to ford the stream on foot. Take off your boots and feel the cool waters run through your toes. The stream is just about shin-deep.
Half an hour after you’ve crossed the stream, the road again curves to the right, giving you the first views of Cheso village. Like other ancient villages on the trail, Cheso is a marvel to look at from a distance.
As you approach Cheso, there is another gushing stream over the road that needs fording. You could avoid it by climbing up to the village and crossing over a wooden bridge. This way, you get to visit the village too, a welcome break with enough cafes to take a quick bite.
Cheso to Pharsma
Multiple paths lead out of the village back to the road. After a quick break, take any of them and continue trekking.
Impressive towers rise from the ridge above Cheso. The road from Cheso curves left getting to the bottom of the ridge on which the towers stand.
As the road circumvents the end of the ridge above Cheso, the scenery takes on a new form. The valley opens up. The steep flanks of the Pirikita range give way to gentler drops. You see more snow patches on the other bank, which soon turns meadowy.
It is no surprise that there are more shepherds’ huts and flocks of sheep on the other side of the river. It is another hour to Pharsma, and the picture-perfect scenery stays with you all along.
Fifteen minutes before Pharsma, look out for another set of magnificent towers on the other side of the river.
The Pharsma you see close to the trail is just two cafes spread out over meadows — a good spot to rest and refill your water bottle. A third Cafe Beso is high up on the hillside next to an ancient building.
The real Pharsma village is much above the road, nestled among the ancient ruins. You can’t see the village from the road. However, as the road continues towards Girevi, look back to catch a sight of the Pharsma village. Some trekkers do take a detour and climb up the village, but it is mostly unnecessary. The villages of Dartlo and Girevi give trekkers a similar experience.
Pharsma to Girevi
A kilometre outside Pharsma, the motorable road abruptly ends just as you catch your first glimpse of Girevi. From afar, Girevi looks warm and inviting, snuggled in the lap of a vast meadow.
From the end of the road, the foot trail traverses the very edge of the river. While the stony path weaves in and out just above the river, it doesn’t pose any risk. The section doesn’t last more than 200 meters.
After this, the trail climbs quickly into the meadows of Girevi. There are flat camping grounds between the two culverts that run parallel to the Girevi village. If you are not camping, continue to the village until you find a familiar yellow signpost that signals the start of the village.
There are a bunch of guesthouses on either side of the culvert. The real Girevi village is behind the guest houses.
Girevi is a shepherds’ settlement, so expect to see cows and sheep grazing about. The villagers also grow their greens in their backyards.
We must warn you, Girevi is notorious for its dogs that often bark and growl at visitors. Be careful around the dogs. Always carry a hiking pole with you. Shoo away any dog that gets uncomfortably close with a gesture of picking up a stone.
In the evening, climb to the top of Girevi and get on the trail to Atsunta Pass. Walk towards the towers and then look back towards Girevi. This gives you a perfect picture of Girevi and how wonderfully it is landscaped.
Note 1:
- It is important to register yourself with the border security post that is behind and below Girevi. It is a big white fabricated structure with the Georgian flag and the Border Security flag fluttering over it.
- At this post, you will be asked for your passport. They will issue a slip of paper that allows you to continue on the trek. You will have to show this pass at all checkpoints on the trek.
- Get this paperwork done the evening you arrive at Girevi. It takes about 20-30 minutes for all formalities to be completed. Usually, no questions are asked of you — even though the guards appear formal.
Note 2:
- At Girevi, a bed costs approx. GEL 25-30 with each meal at GEL 15. At some guest houses, a bed may cost GEL 45-55.
- No pack horses are available at Girevi, even though you see plenty of them grazing about.
Day 4: Girevi to Atsunta Base Camp
Trek Distance: 21 km | Duration: 10-11 hours
Gradually ascending trail, with some short sharp climbs in between. A long climb towards the end.
You cover a long distance today, almost 21 km. The distance is worth it though because it puts you in a good position for the pass climb the next day.
In Girevi, climb up to the last guest house, Kerigo. The trail to Atsunta Base Camp starts to the left of the guest house and heads towards the ridge just above the towers of Girevi.
Across the bridge, you can see the valley split into two. Your trail follows the valley to the right.
Twenty minutes later, as you round the corner of another ridge, the valley to the right opens up. In the far distance, you can see the ruins of Chontio.
The trail stays about 200 m (800 ft) above the river, maintaining a steady height as it rounds a big curve.
The scenery that opens up when you see the ruins of Chontio is magnificent. The high altitude Georgian meadows are in full view. Added to this, the trail is lined with wildflowers.
It takes slightly more than an hour to get to the ruins of Chontio. About ten minutes before the ruins, the trail banks a sharp left crosses a stream and takes a steep path across a landslide section.
The landslide section is small but navigate it carefully. Find firm footmarks on the trail to cross safely.
The ruins make a good spot to take a breather as you soak in the aura of the ancient structures.
Past the ruins, about 5.5 km out of Girevi, look out for a shepherd’s hut standing on a flattish mound. Spot a few trails that go down to the river from the hut. At the river bed is a small flat camping ground. It is a good spot to get to if in case you want to reduce the distance of the day. So instead of staying earlier at Girevi, you could camp at this spot. You can also consider camping beside the shepherds’ hut: it has terrific views, has a source of water and the reassuring presence of the shepherds. Just keep watchful of the dogs.
About forty minutes from here, all the while trekking through beautiful grasslands, the trail reaches a big stream tumbling across the trail. There isn’t any option but to ford the stream here.
Fifteen minutes past this point, the valley narrows, and the view changes almost suddenly to a closed valley. Another half-hour later the trail drops down to the river bed for the first time on the trek.
Soon after this descent, you have a long switchback climb to the top of the ridge, gaining the 500-600 feet that you’ve lost. As you climb, you reach the end of a ridge. Rounding the ridge gives you the first views of the Kvakhidistkali meadows and also the split valley in front.
From your high point, it is a longish descent right to the meadows. From above you’ll see two shepherds’ huts and a few toilet tents on the meadows.
From the ridge, get down to the river again, cross a small wooden bridge and step into the Kvakhidistkali meadows. It is a lovely flattish meadow with gently sloping ledges rising from the far end of the meadows.
The shepherds have set up a shop where you can buy food, soft drinks and a few knick-knacks. There is also a good water source in the middle of the meadows where shepherds have set up a pipe. The shepherd’s hut also doubles up as a border check post where staff from the security forces will ask to see your passport and your trekking pass.
The Kvakhidistkali meadows make for a good camping spot. You can set up your tent on the many ledges around the meadows or camp right in the meadows. Most trekkers end their day here.
However, our advice would be to camp 6 km further ahead on a ridge close to the base of the Atsunta pass. This gives you a big distance advantage. You put in significantly less effort to cross the pass the next day. The shortened distance also allows you to enjoy the next day’s trail more.
If you are making your way to the Atsunta Base Camp, trace back your steps to the wooden bridge, cross over and rejoin the main trail that goes towards Atsunta pass.
The trail runs along the river bed parallel to the Kvakhidistkali meadows before climbing onto the grasslands above the river.
Once on the grasslands, it is a delight to walk through the undulating landscape. The lovely grasslands stretch long towards the end of the valley with wildflowers growing everywhere.
In an hour, at the end of the grasslands, the valley begins to narrow. The trail drops down to the river bed and continues on the river bed for some time. You’ll find sub-trails heading off from the river into the grasslands, but stay on the river bed until you spot a small shepherd’s hut on your right.
Two minutes further, there is a mark on a rock which shows an arrow towards Shatili. You will have to cross a stream here.
Expect waist-deep water in the stream around July, fording it may not be easy. Later in the season, you’ll find calf-deep water.
Most trekkers ford the stream on their own, but you can also arrange for a horse from the Kvakhidistkali meadows. It helps if you are in a group and a horse is accompanying you. On the other hand, you can team up with a bigger team crossing the stream.
Note:
- You can negotiate a horse for the stream crossing from the Kvakhidistkali meadows for about GEL 60 to 100. You can team up with 4-6 people and share the cost in between.
- Across the stream, the trail runs along the main Kvakhidistkali river (though the river looks smaller than the stream you had to ford). Continue upstream, in about ten minutes the trail turns to the right and climbs through a narrow culvert amidst thick undergrowth.
In a while, you have to cross the stream in the culvert too. Across the culvert, there is a smallish campsite. Avoid this and continue your climb on the meadows.
A twenty-minute steep climb through the meadows will bring you to another campsite on top of a ridge. This is your camp spot of the day. It is a terrific spot with lovely views of the valley behind you. Up ahead stares at you the trail to Atsunta pass. You are nestled in a large amphitheatre setting.
You cover a long distance today, almost 21 km. The distance is worth it though because it puts you in a good position for the pass climb the next day.
In Girevi, climb up to the last guest house, Kerigo. The trail to Atsunta Base Camp starts to the left of the guest house and heads towards the ridge just above the towers of Girevi.
Across the bridge, you can see the valley split into two. Your trail follows the valley to the right.
Twenty minutes later, as you round the corner of another ridge, the valley to the right opens up. In the far distance, you can see the ruins of Chontio.
The trail stays about 200 m (800 ft) above the river, maintaining a steady height as it rounds a big curve.
The scenery that opens up when you see the ruins of Chontio is magnificent. The high altitude Georgian meadows are in full view. Added to this, the trail is lined with wildflowers.
It takes slightly more than an hour to get to the ruins of Chontio. About ten minutes before the ruins, the trail banks a sharp left crosses a stream and takes a steep path across a landslide section.
The landslide section is small but navigate it carefully. Find firm footmarks on the trail to cross safely.
The ruins make a good spot to take a breather as you soak in the aura of the ancient structures.
Past the ruins, about 5.5 km out of Girevi, look out for a shepherd’s hut standing on a flattish mound. Spot a few trails that go down to the river from the hut. At the river bed is a small flat camping ground. It is a good spot to get to if in case you want to reduce the distance of the day. So instead of staying earlier at Girevi, you could camp at this spot. You can also consider camping beside the shepherds’ hut: it has terrific views, has a source of water and the reassuring presence of the shepherds. Just keep watchful of the dogs.
About forty minutes from here, all the while trekking through beautiful grasslands, the trail reaches a big stream tumbling across the trail. There isn’t any option but to ford the stream here.
Fifteen minutes past this point, the valley narrows, and the view changes almost suddenly to a closed valley. Another half-hour later the trail drops down to the river bed for the first time on the trek.
Soon after this descent, you have a long switchback climb to the top of the ridge, gaining the 500-600 feet that you’ve lost. As you climb, you reach the end of a ridge. Rounding the ridge gives you the first views of the Kvakhidistkali meadows and also the split valley in front.
From your high point, it is a longish descent right to the meadows. From above you’ll see two shepherds’ huts and a few toilet tents on the meadows.
From the ridge, get down to the river again, cross a small wooden bridge and step into the Kvakhidistkali meadows. It is a lovely flattish meadow with gently sloping ledges rising from the far end of the meadows.
The shepherds have set up a shop where you can buy food, soft drinks and a few knick-knacks. There is also a good water source in the middle of the meadows where shepherds have set up a pipe. The shepherd’s hut also doubles up as a border check post where staff from the security forces will ask to see your passport and your trekking pass.
The Kvakhidistkali meadows make for a good camping spot. You can set up your tent on the many ledges around the meadows or camp right in the meadows. Most trekkers end their day here.
However, our advice would be to camp 6 km further ahead on a ridge close to the base of the Atsunta pass. This gives you a big distance advantage. You put in significantly less effort to cross the pass the next day. The shortened distance also allows you to enjoy the next day’s trail more.
If you are making your way to the Atsunta Base Camp, trace back your steps to the wooden bridge, cross over and rejoin the main trail that goes towards Atsunta pass.
The trail runs along the river bed parallel to the Kvakhidistkali meadows before climbing onto the grasslands above the river.
Once on the grasslands, it is a delight to walk through the undulating landscape. The lovely grasslands stretch long towards the end of the valley with wildflowers growing everywhere.
In an hour, at the end of the grasslands, the valley begins to narrow. The trail drops down to the river bed and continues on the river bed for some time. You’ll find sub-trails heading off from the river into the grasslands, but stay on the river bed until you spot a small shepherd’s hut on your right.
Two minutes further, there is a mark on a rock which shows an arrow towards Shatili. You will have to cross a stream here.
Expect waist-deep water in the stream around July, fording it may not be easy. Later in the season, you’ll find calf-deep water.
Most trekkers ford the stream on their own, but you can also arrange for a horse from the Kvakhidistkali meadows. It helps if you are in a group and a horse is accompanying you. On the other hand, you can team up with a bigger team crossing the stream.
Note:
- You can negotiate a horse for the stream crossing from the Kvakhidistkali meadows for about GEL 60 to 100. You can team up with 4-6 people and share the cost in between.
- Across the stream, the trail runs along the main Kvakhidistkali river (though the river looks smaller than the stream you had to ford). Continue upstream, in about ten minutes the trail turns to the right and climbs through a narrow culvert amidst thick undergrowth.
In a while, you have to cross the stream in the culvert too. Across the culvert, there is a smallish campsite. Avoid this and continue your climb on the meadows.
A twenty-minute steep climb through the meadows will bring you to another campsite on top of a ridge. This is your camp spot of the day. It is a terrific spot with lovely views of the valley behind you. Up ahead stares at you the trail to Atsunta pass. You are nestled in a large amphitheatre setting.
Day 5: Atsunta Base Camp to Khidotani via Atsunta Pass
Trek Distance: 11.1 km | Duration: 7 hours
Stiff climb to the pass. A sharp descent to the grasslands followed by a gently undulating walk over the meadows.
This is the day of the big pass day. There is a lot of height to gain and an impressive altitude to lose as well.
This is why your Atsunta Base Camp makes sense. The head start is great for the pass rush.
Starting at the Atsunta Base Camp, the trail leads you to the base of the Atsunta passing through a series of ledges. The ledges make a good rest point for the trail is no longer gentle walks through the grasslands but gain altitude rapidly with every step.
Aim for the first ledge which is 20 minutes out of the Atsunta Base Camp. A clear stream runs close by — which also makes a good spot to fill your bottles.
From the first ledge aim for the second ledge from where you’ll get your first views of the Atsunta Pass. The pass is perched high up on the mountainside to your right — the trail to the pass is visible. Looking back the views are spectacular, as are the views in front.
From the second ledge, a swift switchback climb tops up at your third ledge which also serves as the base of your big climb to the pass.
There is a tiny stream at the foot of the big climb to the pass, where, if you are patient enough you can fill your bottles. There isn’t any other water source until you descend off the pass on the other side.
At the spot, you are already at 10,200 feet. There are another 1,300 feet of climb left to the pass. You have climbed approximately 1,000 feet from your Atsunta Base Camp.
The climb to the pass starts with a traverse to the right, losing sight of the pass, climbs rapidly over many small switchbacks, followed by another long traverse to the left that brings back the view of the pass. From here it is another 500 feet to the pass.
In between the traverses, you lose all green cover and the climb is entirely over brown earth and shale.
The final push to the pass is hard on the lungs but mentally easier as the pass is visible all the time.
The pass at 3,530 m (11,575 feet) is a cold windy place, with the wind blowing a blizzard. It is a tiny pass barely 10 meters in length and a few meters wide — which also forms the wind tunnel. The view of the Khidotani range on the other side is stunning.
A huge wide canvas of green opens up on the other side. The contrast between the brown of the pass and the greens on the other side is startling.
The trail that descends from the pass is visible as it rapidly loses altitude in very short switchbacks, bottoms out as it touches the grasslands, and makes a long traverse across the bottom of the pass and heads towards the Khidotani meadows before disappearing into it.
The moment you step off the pass, the wind dies out. It is almost like a button has been switched off — through the wind is back sometimes when you get to the exposed parts of the climb down from the pass.
It takes less than an hour to descend to the greens and also to your first water source. Filling up, continue your traverse along the flanks of the Khidotani range heading towards the top of the Khidotani meadows. The traverses pass through some lovely sections of Rhododendrons and wildflowers.
The traverse initially descends and gently climbs again before popping out on the Khidotani meadows.
The meadows sprawl out over the top of the Khidotani range — which makes it a sight for the eyes. It is involuntary but most trekkers will spend a lot of time trekking this section, easily one of the best moments of the trek.
Cutting diagonally across the meadows, the trail heads towards the behind of the last hilltop of the Khidotani range. On the other side, you see another side of yet another splendid valley. Deep down the valley spot the village of Ardoti which is also the last road head from Mutso, where your trek ends.
The traverse on the other side again brings you round to the side facing the Atsunta pass. Forty minutes and a short descent later the trails stop short at the border check post of the Khidotani meadows. At the border check post, you need to show your passport and your trek pass again.
The border check post is also a lovely spot to end the day's trek, on top of the meadows. You can camp anywhere around the checkpost — there are plenty of camping spots everywhere. Around the camping area, the views are terrific.
A water spot is available not too far from the check post towards the hillside. You can also get water from a pipe inside the checkpost.
This is the day of the big pass day. There is a lot of height to gain and an impressive altitude to lose as well.
This is why your Atsunta Base Camp makes sense. The head start is great for the pass rush.
Starting at the Atsunta Base Camp, the trail leads you to the base of the Atsunta passing through a series of ledges. The ledges make a good rest point for the trail is no longer gentle walks through the grasslands but gain altitude rapidly with every step.
Aim for the first ledge which is 20 minutes out of the Atsunta Base Camp. A clear stream runs close by — which also makes a good spot to fill your bottles.
From the first ledge aim for the second ledge from where you’ll get your first views of the Atsunta Pass. The pass is perched high up on the mountainside to your right — the trail to the pass is visible. Looking back the views are spectacular, as are the views in front.
From the second ledge, a swift switchback climb tops up at your third ledge which also serves as the base of your big climb to the pass.
There is a tiny stream at the foot of the big climb to the pass, where, if you are patient enough you can fill your bottles. There isn’t any other water source until you descend off the pass on the other side.
At the spot, you are already at 10,200 feet. There are another 1,300 feet of climb left to the pass. You have climbed approximately 1,000 feet from your Atsunta Base Camp.
The climb to the pass starts with a traverse to the right, losing sight of the pass, climbs rapidly over many small switchbacks, followed by another long traverse to the left that brings back the view of the pass. From here it is another 500 feet to the pass.
In between the traverses, you lose all green cover and the climb is entirely over brown earth and shale.
The final push to the pass is hard on the lungs but mentally easier as the pass is visible all the time.
The pass at 3,530 m (11,575 feet) is a cold windy place, with the wind blowing a blizzard. It is a tiny pass barely 10 meters in length and a few meters wide — which also forms the wind tunnel. The view of the Khidotani range on the other side is stunning.
A huge wide canvas of green opens up on the other side. The contrast between the brown of the pass and the greens on the other side is startling.
The trail that descends from the pass is visible as it rapidly loses altitude in very short switchbacks, bottoms out as it touches the grasslands, and makes a long traverse across the bottom of the pass and heads towards the Khidotani meadows before disappearing into it.
The moment you step off the pass, the wind dies out. It is almost like a button has been switched off — through the wind is back sometimes when you get to the exposed parts of the climb down from the pass.
It takes less than an hour to descend to the greens and also to your first water source. Filling up, continue your traverse along the flanks of the Khidotani range heading towards the top of the Khidotani meadows. The traverses pass through some lovely sections of Rhododendrons and wildflowers.
The traverse initially descends and gently climbs again before popping out on the Khidotani meadows.
The meadows sprawl out over the top of the Khidotani range — which makes it a sight for the eyes. It is involuntary but most trekkers will spend a lot of time trekking this section, easily one of the best moments of the trek.
Cutting diagonally across the meadows, the trail heads towards the behind of the last hilltop of the Khidotani range. On the other side, you see another side of yet another splendid valley. Deep down the valley spot the village of Ardoti which is also the last road head from Mutso, where your trek ends.
The traverse on the other side again brings you round to the side facing the Atsunta pass. Forty minutes and a short descent later the trails stop short at the border check post of the Khidotani meadows. At the border check post, you need to show your passport and your trek pass again.
The border check post is also a lovely spot to end the day's trek, on top of the meadows. You can camp anywhere around the checkpost — there are plenty of camping spots everywhere. Around the camping area, the views are terrific.
A water spot is available not too far from the check post towards the hillside. You can also get water from a pipe inside the checkpost.
Day 6: Trek from Khidotani to Mutso and drive to Shatili
Trek Distance: 8 km | Drive distance: 12.5 km | Drive duration: 30 minutes
Steep descent to the river followed by a gentle walk to Mutso/Shatili on a motorable road
The last day of the trek is a big descent to Mutso followed by a long walk to Shatili.
Past the bench outside the Khidotani check post, the trail quickly gets into the treeline. Once inside the treeline, the trail dives right into the undergrowth and thick tree cover.
The descent to the river is sharp, steep and over multiple switchbacks. It is a long descent of almost 840 meters (2,760 feet), which can be quite gruelling on the knees and toes.
All along the descent, the forest cover changes rapidly, first through silver birch and then through a mixed forest, finally ending at a sparse forest just above the river.
It takes about an hour and a half to descend the river. Once down, follow the trail until it gets into the river bed ten minutes later.
On the river bed, the trail continues for a bit until you have to ford the river in two places. Villagers have kept loose logs of silver birch to cross over, but they can be precarious. It is better to get down n all fours on the logs to cross the river. The river below gushes.
Once on the other side continue on the trail getting to Khonischala village in another ten minutes. Just before the village, there is a foot wooden bridge to cross the river. You are back on the left bank of the river.
At the Khonischala village, the trail merges with a motorable dirt road that starts from the village. There is a guest house and some shops to buy food in the village.
Follow the road as it climbs steeply out of the village. Over the climb, the road descends rapidly in the next few minutes to another foot over the bridge across the river. The river here tumbles over a gorge in a furious roar.
Across the bridge, carry on the road as you catch your first sight of the Mutso towers. They are impressive against the skyline.
It takes another half hour to the final checkpost, which is also a road junction for the road from the Ardoti village. The Andaki river meets the Khoniskhali river at this spot too.
At the checkpost, you’ll be asked for your passport and the trek pass for one last time. The process will take a bit of time because the guards need to enter your details in their records. So expect to spend around 15 mins or so here. If the group size is more then it could take longer.
The Mutso village is a ten mins walk further on. Just before the village, a stream cuts across the road. A campsite just before the stream is on the left of the road, just above the river.
The Mutso village isn’t much, but a collection of 4-5 houses, most of which double up as restaurants. You can talk to the eateries here who can get you a taxi for approx. GEL 112 to Shatili. Usually, no taxis ply here, so they need to be called from Shatili.
The real Mutso village is up in the ruins about 150 meters above the village. There is a clear trail that starts from the road to the ruins. Keep aside an hour or two to visit the ruins of Mutso, now a heritage site restored.
Continuing on the trek, it is better to continue walking as the road gets into a lovely deep valley lined by tall cliffs all along to Anatori 10 km away. The trail along the Andaki river is a flattish walk with the scenery making very interesting changes now and then. There is rarely a dull moment.
About 3.5 km into the road, there is a lovely camping ground beside the road. Further on the lookout for an interesting rural Georgian farming settlement roughly one hour into the walk.
About a kilometre and a half before Anatori the road crosses a flat iron bridge to again get to the left of the river. As soon as you cross the river warm winds from the valley catch you head-on.
Anatori is not a village or a settlement. It is just a sharp curve on the road. At the turn, there is a signpost and a tourist information board about the history of the tombs of Anatori.
The tombs are just behind the signpost, so spend about ten minutes reading up and looking at a very historical sight. You can still see the bones inside the tombs. This is also the closest you’ll get to the Russian border on the trek which is less than a kilometre away, down the river.
Keep your eyes peeled, you’ll spot several border security guards manning the hills higher up on the other side of the river.
Continue on the road to Shatili which takes another half hour to forty minutes to get there. After a long while, you are going to be walking upstream along the Arghuni river.
The fortress of Shatili is impressive from a distance. As you draw closer, the guest houses of Shatili get into view.
At Shatili there are plenty of guesthouses to choose from. For more guest houses, cross the foot overbridge and continue along the road, past the fortress. These guest houses are usually not visible when you first view Shatili giving you the impression that your choices are few.
The Shatili fortress is a heritage site and the reason for people coming far and wide to visit. This ancient archaeological heritage needs time for exploration, so again, keep an hour for this. Shatili is breathtaking in its beauty — which is why it is in photographs of Georgia everywhere.
The last day of the trek is a big descent to Mutso followed by a long walk to Shatili.
Past the bench outside the Khidotani check post, the trail quickly gets into the treeline. Once inside the treeline, the trail dives right into the undergrowth and thick tree cover.
The descent to the river is sharp, steep and over multiple switchbacks. It is a long descent of almost 840 meters (2,760 feet), which can be quite gruelling on the knees and toes.
All along the descent, the forest cover changes rapidly, first through silver birch and then through a mixed forest, finally ending at a sparse forest just above the river.
It takes about an hour and a half to descend the river. Once down, follow the trail until it gets into the river bed ten minutes later.
On the river bed, the trail continues for a bit until you have to ford the river in two places. Villagers have kept loose logs of silver birch to cross over, but they can be precarious. It is better to get down n all fours on the logs to cross the river. The river below gushes.
Once on the other side continue on the trail getting to Khonischala village in another ten minutes. Just before the village, there is a foot wooden bridge to cross the river. You are back on the left bank of the river.
At the Khonischala village, the trail merges with a motorable dirt road that starts from the village. There is a guest house and some shops to buy food in the village.
Follow the road as it climbs steeply out of the village. Over the climb, the road descends rapidly in the next few minutes to another foot over the bridge across the river. The river here tumbles over a gorge in a furious roar.
Across the bridge, carry on the road as you catch your first sight of the Mutso towers. They are impressive against the skyline.
It takes another half hour to the final checkpost, which is also a road junction for the road from the Ardoti village. The Andaki river meets the Khoniskhali river at this spot too.
At the checkpost, you’ll be asked for your passport and the trek pass for one last time. The process will take a bit of time because the guards need to enter your details in their records. So expect to spend around 15 mins or so here. If the group size is more then it could take longer.
The Mutso village is a ten mins walk further on. Just before the village, a stream cuts across the road. A campsite just before the stream is on the left of the road, just above the river.
The Mutso village isn’t much, but a collection of 4-5 houses, most of which double up as restaurants. You can talk to the eateries here who can get you a taxi for approx. GEL 112 to Shatili. Usually, no taxis ply here, so they need to be called from Shatili.
The real Mutso village is up in the ruins about 150 meters above the village. There is a clear trail that starts from the road to the ruins. Keep aside an hour or two to visit the ruins of Mutso, now a heritage site restored.
Continuing on the trek, it is better to continue walking as the road gets into a lovely deep valley lined by tall cliffs all along to Anatori 10 km away. The trail along the Andaki river is a flattish walk with the scenery making very interesting changes now and then. There is rarely a dull moment.
About 3.5 km into the road, there is a lovely camping ground beside the road. Further on the lookout for an interesting rural Georgian farming settlement roughly one hour into the walk.
About a kilometre and a half before Anatori the road crosses a flat iron bridge to again get to the left of the river. As soon as you cross the river warm winds from the valley catch you head-on.
Anatori is not a village or a settlement. It is just a sharp curve on the road. At the turn, there is a signpost and a tourist information board about the history of the tombs of Anatori.
The tombs are just behind the signpost, so spend about ten minutes reading up and looking at a very historical sight. You can still see the bones inside the tombs. This is also the closest you’ll get to the Russian border on the trek which is less than a kilometre away, down the river.
Keep your eyes peeled, you’ll spot several border security guards manning the hills higher up on the other side of the river.
Continue on the road to Shatili which takes another half hour to forty minutes to get there. After a long while, you are going to be walking upstream along the Arghuni river.
The fortress of Shatili is impressive from a distance. As you draw closer, the guest houses of Shatili get into view.
At Shatili there are plenty of guesthouses to choose from. For more guest houses, cross the foot overbridge and continue along the road, past the fortress. These guest houses are usually not visible when you first view Shatili giving you the impression that your choices are few.
The Shatili fortress is a heritage site and the reason for people coming far and wide to visit. This ancient archaeological heritage needs time for exploration, so again, keep an hour for this. Shatili is breathtaking in its beauty — which is why it is in photographs of Georgia everywhere.
Day 7: Drive from Shatili to Tbilisi
Drive distance: 150 km | Drop-off point: Freedom Square, Tbilisi | Drop-off time: 4 pm to 7 pm
It is a long 4½ hour journey over bad roads most of the way. The good part is the superb scenery all along, especially the stunning Datvisjvari pass. It is one last time you’ll see the green Georgian grassland.
It is a long 4½ hour journey over bad roads most of the way. The good part is the superb scenery all along, especially the stunning Datvisjvari pass. It is one last time you’ll see the green Georgian grassland.
Moderate-Difficult
Suitable for Experienced Trekkers
At Indiahikes, while rating a trek difficulty we consider several factors. These include, altitude gained every day, length of a trek every day, highest altitude, nature of the terrain, weather etc. Based on this we rate a trek as easy or difficult or somewhere in between.
The Atsunta Pass trek is rated as a moderate-difficult trek. Although the trail on the trek is well-marked and almost straightforward, do not mistake it for an easy trek. You cover a distance of more than 80 km in 5 days. That, coupled with a total elevation change of 5,481 ft makes it very challenging. And not to forget, that you have a backpack to carry throughout.
You can tell that the trek requires a great amount of cardiovascular endurance as well as functional strength training. You should be able to run 5 km in 32 minutes. Refer to this section for more details on how to get fit for your trek.
Safety on the Atsunta Pass Trek
At altitudes above 10,000 ft, the chances of being hit by Acute Mountain Sickness are real. Altitude sickness does not distinguish between a first-timer and an experienced trekker. Even experienced trekkers can get affected. Fitness helps in making your trek easier. But do not forget that even a fit person climbing too high too soon runs an equal risk of developing AMS.
Some symptoms to watch out for: (a) Persistent headache (b) Feeling fatigued or weak (c) Feel nauseous or vomit (d) Feeling dizzy or lightheaded, often while sitting up or standing suddenly (e) You don’t feel like eating, you have a loss of appetite (f) You don’t sleep very well at night.
The itinerary of the Atsunta Pass trek allows you to acclimatise well. And yet, you must stay alert for any signs of AMS. Inform your trek leader immediately of any symptoms related to AMS.
While most of the days in the Atsunta Pass trek are relatively easy in terms of the nature of the terrain, pass crossing is quite challenging. It is steep, and has lots of loose scree. Be mindful of your footing while ascending and descending from the pass.
While July to September is the best time to do the Atsunta Pass trek, the terrain is susceptible to heavy rains.
Usually, it will not rain for 24 hours but can receive heavy showers for a brief period. With this in mind, we advise you to keep at least 3 buffer days in your travel plan.
Our Trek leader will take a call on the trek, depending on the weather conditions about utilizing the buffer day.
We recommend jogging as the best routine to get fit for a trek. It works on the same muscles that you use while trekking — your calves, glutes and hamstrings. It helps increase your stamina day by day. It is also an easy routine that does not require any equipment or tools.
Fitness target:
To do this trek comfortably, you must be able to cover 5 km in under 32 minutes. This is the minimum fitness required for this trek.
How to achieve this fitness?
- Start jogging at least 4 days a week
- If you cannot run 5 km immediately, start with 2 km and increase to 5 km over 2-3 weeks.
- Once you’re able to run 5 km, increase your pace day by day.
- Gradually increase your pace and bring it down to 5 km in less than 32 mins.
- You must be able to run 5 km in 32 mins consistently for at least 2 weeks before the trek.
This trek requires at least 6-8 weeks of preparation. The longer, the better. So plan your trek soon and start preparing.
Here's a complete guide to get you trek fit.
Strength training tips:
How to get Fitness Approval from the Indiahikes team:
Every trekker needs fitness approval from the Indiahikes team 20 days before the trek date. Without this, you will not be allowed on the trek.
What to upload?
- A minimum of 3 screenshots of your runs/jogs/walks/cycling
- Monthly summary of your routine
Why fitness matters:
Every high-altitude trek comes with a set of challenges. Steep ascents and descents, uneven terrain, snow walks, stream crossings, pass crossings, and summit climb. Even the easiest of treks have some of these challenges if not all of them. Without fitness, trekkers struggle, get injured easily, lag behind, or simply fail to complete the trek.
At Indiahikes, we take pride in the fact that our trekkers are among the fittest in the country. Those who do not meet the fitness requirements are often sent back. Our philosophy is that trekking and fitness go hand in hand. Without fitness, there’s no trekking.
Georgia is a Eurasian country, which means it sits right between Europe and Asia. It shares its border with Russia in the North, Azerbaijan in the Southeast, Armenia in the South and Turkey in the Southwest. Being at the crossroads of eastern and western civilisation, the country is a happy mix of eastern and western influences. It is seen in their architecture, culture and food.
Tbilisi, the capital
Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, is a charming blend of modern and classical. On one hand, there are orthodox churches and monasteries, reflecting the country’s overwhelming Eastern Orthodox Christian population. On the other hand, there are casinos and clubs mushrooming across the city, signifying a fairly active nightlife.
The buildings you see, especially in Tbilisi’s old town, seem to be from old Soviet time. Yet, the moment you walk in, you see that interiors are entirely modern! All of these old buildings seems to have their interiors renovated, with their crumbling exteriors dating back to Russian imperial times. Old Tbilisi has narrow, cobbled streets that wind around the town, with stray cats flitting in and about.
On the trail to Atsunta Pass
In the mountains, the houses are simple stone houses. You find homes with fruit trees growing out of them. The sight of them fill you with warmth. On the trail, ancient ruins of stone towers and shrines are many, a remnant of an era gone by. They add to the charm of this trek.
The people
The people of Georgia are extremely hospitable, polite and friendly. They will often go out of their way to help you – even if you don’t share the language. There is also an abiding sense of integrity. They even get offended if you entertain the idea of them cheating you!
They are also extremely rooted – the people have a strong sense of belonging to Georgia and they take pride in their unique culture. They celebrate it! In the city, you will find multiple events centered around art, theatre, dance and music. You will see some of the music and dance on the streets. Our founders caught a folk performance (incidentally from the mountain folk of Tusheti, the region we trek in!) in the airport!
On the trail, the mountain folk are quite like the ones you find in the Himalayas. The locals love to host, feed you, regale with their stories of their life and culture.
Language
Most people speak Georgian, Russian in some places and very basic English. The owners of guest houses you stay at will converse with you in this basic English.
Georgian cuisine
Georgian cuisine has a healthy mix of vegetables and meat. Which means, there are a fair number of vegetarian dishes along with non-vegetarian dishes on the menu. Options for vegans, however, are difficult to find.
Expect bread and cheese with every meal, or cheese-filled breads or steamed dumplings with vegetables, meat and cheese. There are multiple varieties of cheese in their cuisine.
Eating together seems to be the norm. Food often comes in sharing plates and every serving is for at least 3-4 people. The portions are quite large. So come to Georgia with a healthy appetite!
The price of food seems to be quite standard, with very little difference between the regular and higher end restaurants. Say, if a meal costs you GEL 7 at a regular restaurant, the same dish will cost you about GEL 8 lari at a higher end restaurant. Expect the prices of food go higher up in the mountains.
Here are some special Georgian dishes you must try:
- Khachapuri (Cheese-stuffed bread) **Recommended
- Khinkali (Also called Totori in the Tusheti region) (Georgian Dumplings) **Recommended
- Matsoni (Yogurt)
- Lobiani (Bean-stuffed bread)
- Chvishtari (Cheese corn bread)
- Badrijani Nigvzit Roasted Eggplant (badrijani)
- Lobio (Bean Soup)
- Qababi (Kebabs) Grilled minced meat
- Mtsvadi (Shashlik, meat skewers) Fire-roasted chunks of pork, salted.
- Satsivi – Poultry (chicken or turkey) served with a thinned paste of walnut, garlic and herbs.
- Mashed potatoes and lots of cheese!
- Puri/Tonis Puri (Georgian Flatbread)
Of course, Georgia is famous for its wine! We recommend sampling some after your trek.
Also, we loved gorging on the locally grown fruits. They grow in abundance and cost lesser than normal food. Try the cherries, peaches and plums that thrive in trekking season.
Additional information:
– Most of the country follows a standard pricing. You can bargain only for your transport.
– There seems to be no culture of tipping. So you can just pay what you have been charged.
– Don’t try to pet the dogs in the mountains. The shepherd dogs are not friendly. They are trained to guard their flock and will attack you if they see you as a threat. The best thing to do when you find these dogs on trail is to wait for their owner/shepherd to come around, so you can go ahead.
For the Atsunta Pass trek, you have to reach Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia.
How to get a visa to Georgia (Photo, Document list)
For E-Visa
-Fill out your Visa application electronically
Link: https://www.evisa.gov.ge/GeoVisa/
You’ll need:
- Passport
- Photocopy of the bio-data pages of the passport and all the used pages.
- Two recent photographs (3 x 4 cm)
- Confirmed onward/return flight tickets
- Personal bank statement of last six months
- Personal Income Tax Return (ITR) copy.
- Onward Visa.
- Proof of accommodation arrangements
- Receipt certifying payment for consideration of visa issuance.
- Travel Insurance valid in Georgia.
- Covering Letter from the applicant explaining the purpose of the visit.
Passport requirements:
- Must have been issued within the last 10 years.
- Must have at least three months of validity beyond the date of visa.
- Must have at least 2 blank pages.
You need to send these documents along with a scanned copy of your passport & photograph to your travel agent or you can do it online.
Stamp Visa
For Stamp Visa, apart from the above steps, you need to make a profile- Link.
You’ll have to book an appointment and submit the above-mentioned documents along with your passport.
How to reach Omalo from Tbilisi
Tbilisi International Airport- Freedom Square metro station- Isani metro station- Central Bus stand, Tbilisi- Alvani- Omalo
From the Tbilisi International Airport, board a bus heading to Freedom square. It’ll take you around 45 to 60 mins. From the Freedom square metro station, board a metro for Isani. A short distance from Isani metro station, you’ll find buses heading to Central Bus stand of Tbilisi.
A Marshrutka (mini bus) leaves for Alvani (110 km; 3 hours) from the Central Bus Stand at 9.10 am. This being the only bus service to Alvani every day, make sure you reach Central Bus Stand well in advance.
The onward journey to Lower Omalo (72 km; 4½ to 5 hours) has to be completed in private SUVs, which usually wait at the Alvani bus stand. Hiring a SUV (4-6 seater) costs appox. GEL 225. You can cut down on your expenditure by sharing the SUV with other people heading to Omalo.
How to get to Tbilisi from Shatili
Shatili is a quaint village in the Caucasus mountains. Therefore, there are only two ways to reach Tbilisi- Bus and SUV.
Every Thursday and Sunday, a bus leaves for Tbilisi at 9.00 am. It costs GEL 28.
Alternatively, you can board an SUV that leaves every morning at 10 am. If you have other trekkers travelling to Tbilisi, hiring the entire SUV is an affordable option as it’ll cost about GEL 390-450.
Be prepared for a long 4½ hour journey either ways, with beautiful scenes making up for the bad roads along the way.
Atsunta Pass Trek is in Georgia. Georgia known until 1995 as the Republic of Georgia, is a country in the Caucasus region of Eurasia. It shares its border with Russia in the North, Azerbaijan in the Southeast, Armenia in the South and Turkey in the Southwest. The western part of Georgia is bounded by the Black Sea.
The trek starts from Omalo, a place in the heart of Tusheti National Park.
You can safely assume that you’ll be spending a 2-3 days in Tbilisi before and after the trek. In fact a lot of travellers spend a good amount of time here planning and prepping for their hikes in the countryside.
Depending on when you arrive in Tbilisi, you can safely plan to spend 2-3 days in Tbilisi. In fact we highly recommend you do
Spending a day each, before and after the trek in the Georgian capital will help you rest and recover before your journey further.
Moreover, Tbilisi is a beautiful city to spend some time in.
Situated at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, you’ll see how both continents have influenced its culture and history. The resulting cultural diversity that city has to offer is its biggest appeal.
Nowhere is the influence and the diversity more pronounced than in its architecture. No wonder CNN chose Tbilisi as a one of their 7 design savvy cities to watch out for in 2018. And Lonely Planet featured Georgia as one of the top 10 countries to visit in 2018 in their Best in Travel publication.
There is no dearth of places to see or things to do in Tbilisi and you could go on for weeks exploring this city. But it’s also important to not try to do everything and exhaust yourself before you even begin.
So here’s what we recommend
Day 1
Start your exploration by visiting the Old Town which just the perfect place to get acquainted to Georgian history. Walk around the cobbled stone streets while observing the crumbling buildings and restored ones. You’ll be surprised by what you see around every corner. There’s always something new
Make your way to Freedom Square. What was earlier known as Beria Square and then Lenin Square was finally renamed to its current name in 1918 when the country declared its independence from the Russian empire.
The square also houses a monument of St George - the city’s patron saint.
Visit the Georgian Folk Art Museum which is stone’s throw away for a lesson in Georgian art and culture before moving on to the Sulphur bathhouses in the city.
Book yourself for an hour of sauna at these for anywhere between 90-120 GEL. There are cheaper ones available but they’re a bit rundown. You could also book a scrub and a massage if you fancy. Do note that the actually scrub you down so it might not be pleasant massage that you might expect.
Finally end your day at the Tbilisi Botanical Gardens. A short hike through these gardens which are more than 3 centuries old is perfect way to end your day.
Did you know?
Centuries ago discovered sulphur springs around Central Georgia and decided to build a city around them and Tbilisi was born. The city gets its name from old Georgian word T’bilisi - meaning warm place.
Day 2
Start your day at Sameba, also known as the Holy Trinity Cathedral. Built to mark 2000 years of Christianity, the church is the most noticeable monument in the city. At 101m it is the third tallest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in the world and is the main cathedral of Georgian Othodox Church.
From here make your way to Anchiskhati Basilica across the river. It is the oldest surviving church in Georgia and dates back to 6th century AD.
The Narikala Fortress is a short walk from here but we recommend the cable car to go up. Simply for the views that it offers. This ancient fortress was a Persian Citadel established in 4th century.
You can then walk down via Jumah mosque. It’s here you’ll see the diversity that we mentioned earlier. The mosque is located amid the sulphur bathhouses and down the road are a church and synagogue.
Finally walk back across the river via the Peace bridge and relax in Rike park. A great way to escape the buzz of the city while at the same time watching locals and tourists hangout alike.
The best time to do the trek is from July to September.
The unique geographical location of Georgia at the border of Europe and Asia, has blessed it with a variety of climatic conditions- ranging from dry & moderately humid subtropical climate in the plains to bitterly cold winters at the higher altitudes! However, the ideal time to trek in Georgia is summer, which sets in towards the end of June or beginning of July.
The snow in Greater Caucasus mountains starts melting in the summers, making the stunning passes accessible on foot. This, coupled with the lush green meadows nurtured by bountiful rain, makes sure you are in for a visual treat!
Towards August end to September, the meadows start transitioning from lush green to golden brown making it a different experience altogether.
You will mostly have pleasant weather during day time and temperatures are known to drop to low single digits during the night, especially at higher campsites. We recommend carrying 3 layers of clothing for the trek- Quick-dry T-shirts, Fleece jacket & Padded/Down jacket besides Thermals.
The chart below gives you a good idea about the weather conditions during different months of the year in Georgia.
SIM cards can be bought at the exit at Tbilisi International Airport. There are several SIM card options to choose from - Beeline, Geocell and Magti. Magti SIM cards are also available at several mobile stores inside the city.
What we recommend
We recommend using the Magti SIM card. It costs approx. GEL 18. With this you can make unlimited local calls, and use up to 5 GB data. This is enough to use google maps, and do some trek research, it will last for about 2 weeks.
Note: This will not be enough if you wish to watch videos. You can recharge the card with GEL 6 in order to increase your data limit.
For further data and call plans, visit https://www.magticom.ge/en/private/mobile/packages
What you need to buy a SIM Card
You will require a valid passport to purchase a SIM card. Multiple SIM cards can be bought with the same passport.
Other options
You could purchase a Global Pre Paid SIM card from Matrix. This SIM allows free incoming calls from about 80 countries, and 1 GB data per day, this costs about 45 USD for 28 days. For more details, visit - https://mymatrix.matrix.in/matrixprepaid/prepaidrecharge.aspx
There is no shortage of food options in Georgia! Vegetarians and vegans will find their share of food too. Here are some options you could try -
1)Khachapuri (Cheese-stuffed bread)
2)Matsoni (Yogurt)
3)Lobiani (Bean-stuffed bread)
4)Chvishtari (Cheese corn bread)
5)Khinkali (Georgian Dumplings)
6)Badrijani Nigvzit Roasted Eggplant (badrijani)
7)Lobio (Bean Soup)
8)Qababi (Kebabs) Grilled minced meat
9)Mtsvadi (Shashlik, meat skewers) Fire-roasted chunks of pork, salted.
10)Satsivi - Poultry (chicken or turkey) served with a thinned paste of walnut, garlic and herbs.
11)Mashed potatoes and lots of cheese!
12)Puri/Tonis Puri (Georgian Flatbread)
We recommend carrying both cash and cards. In cities like Tbilisi, you can easily swipe your credit/debit cards in stores and restaurants. But once you leave Tbilisi, you can only use cash.
The best thing to do is to carry a Travel card. You can apply for one from your bank before you leave your hometown. Travel cards allow you to carry any foreign currency, and are pin protected just like your credit/debit card. You can use them at any shops that accept Visa/ Mastercards, and also to withdraw cash at ATMs. The advantage over debit/credit cards is that you don’t have to pay the 2- 5% transaction fee that is charged when you use your international debit/ credit card. It can also be reloaded at anytime online.
You will find several ATMs in Tbilisi where you can withdraw cash. Withdrawal charges are very minimal.
If you plan to travel out of cities, make sure to carry enough loose cash with you. It is hard to find ATMs once you leave the city. We advise you to carry a minimum of 600 GEL when you come with Indiahikes for the Atsunta pass trek.
If you’re trekking on your own, carry at least GEL 1,500 loose cash for transport and food.
When you land at Tbilisi airport, you will find Currency Exchange Kiosks. You can exchange your currency here. There are also many Currency exchange booths in the city, one almost every 500 metres or so. Outside the city, you may not find currency exchange booths. So convert your cash to GEL before you head out.
Based on currency rankings, the most popular exchange rate is for USD to GEL. This is followed by Euro, Turkish Lira, Pound sterling, and Russian Ruble. These are the most widely accepted currencies in Georgian exchange booths. Compare the exchange rates in a few booths, you may get a better deal in some than in others.
For exchanges, you will be required to show your passport. Keep it with you always.
Only a few establishments accept Euros or US Dollars directly. So it’s always best to deal with GEL. It’s easier too as you don’t have to mentally calculate everytime you pay!
Tbilisi is a big city and finding a neighbourhood to base yourself can be quite a task. But there is no cause for worry. The city has an extensive public transport system in its metro lines and bus route network. So, moving around the city shouldn’t be a problem irrespective of where you set yourself for a few days.
The best neighbourhoods to place yourself would be the ones around Freedom square or somewhere close by. Tbilisi Old Town, Avlabari, Rustavali, Vera, Marjanishivli are all within 20-25 minutes (some a lot lesser) of walking distance from old town.
There are plenty of hostels around Freedom square where you can find a dorm bed for about 22-45 GEL. Hostelworld.com is the best place to search for such hostels.
Another great option is looking for BnBs. The best thing about BnBs is being able to connect with the locals. At the same time you have your own space and flexibility that comes with staying in a homely environment rather than in a hotel. AirBnB is the go-to place to check out some cool and quirky accommodation options. You’ll get some fantastic bed-and-breakfast choices between 80-120 GEL approximately.
And then finally there are plenty of hotels, right from budget to boutique to upmarket luxury. Booking.com is as good a place as any to find one that fits the bill.
Photo Gallery
Expert Speak
Swathi Chatrapathy, Chief Editor
Swathi Chatrapathy, Chief Editor
Swathi Chatrapathy heads the digital content team at Indiahikes. She is also the face behind India's popular trekking video channel, Trek With Swathi.
A TEDx speaker and a frequent guest at other events, Swathi is a much sought after resource for her expertise in digital content. Here, Swathi shares her experience of the Atsunta Pass trek.
What I Liked About Atsunta Pass Trek
Swathi Chatrapathy, Chief Editor
Swathi Chatrapathy heads the digital content team at Indiahikes. She is also the face behind India's popular trekking video channel, Trek With Swathi. A TEDx speaker and a frequent guest at other events, Swathi is a much sought after resource for her expertise in digital content. Here, Swathi shares her experience of the Atsunta Pass trek.
1. The lovely mountain villages that we stayed in
It's hard not to fall in love with the villages you see on the trek, starting right from Omalo, going through Dartlo, Girevi, Pharsma, Shatili and Mutso. They are not just villages. They are living, breathing archeological sites. They are centuries old — many of them nestled within the ruins of old fortresses and towers. With the astounding grasslands around them, the villages themselves are a sight on the trek.
You stay overnight in two of these villages, in old Georgian homes. The hosts, locals of the region who live in these villages throughout summer, make you feel warm and pampered. With almost motherly care, they feed you their delicious homemade kachapuris, khinkalis, breads, and fresh jams until you are bursting at the seams.
2. The flower bouquet trails
If there's one thing that is different from most Indian trails in Georgia, it is this. Come July and August, you will see the every inch of the trail exploding with flowers. It doesn't stop anywhere, except for a few hundred metres near the pass. So dense are the flowers, that if you sweep your arm across the grasslands and clutch your palm together, you'll have a bouquet in your hand.
3. The manicured meadows and grasslands
This trek is known for its grasslands. And it does not disappoint. It is hard to find such perfectly landscaped grasslands. They stretch out far and wide and on a good day, sun rays light up the grasslands in a grand way. This is when you see the grasslands in all their splendour, with wildflowers and glowing beds of grass!
Once you exit Dartlo, you will see the grasslands transforming into soft, manicured meadows. The sheer expanse from left to right, with the Alazani river flowing in between is hard to take in at a glance.
Look out especially for the trek from Girevi to Atsunta Base Camp. It is a very long day and thank heavens it is. It is a perfect showcase of the grasslands.
After you cross the Atsunta pass, the Khidotani meadows can make anyone weak in the knees. It is laid out over a ridge top, something rare to see.
4. The Atsunta Pass crossing
This pass crossing is as thrilling as any Himalayan pass crossing. Right from the base of the climb, where you see the pass as a tiny speck, to finally reaching and crossing over the pass is exhilarating! Not many treks in Europe have such a spectacular pass crossing. The landscape changes dramatically with every meter. Within a few hundred feet you leave the grasslands behind and enter the stone and shale. It is almost too dramatic.
5. The fortresses in the sky
It's common knowledge that Eastern European countries like Romania, Bulgaria and Hungary are full of mysterious castles and fortresses. Georgia is no less. The entire trail is dotted with ancient fortresses and towers hanging in the sky. At Dartlo, you get a chance to trek to one of these towers and explore the insides. With wind whistling through the walls of the tower and clouds passing in and out of the windows, it's an experience that can send shivers down your spine.
6. The drive to the basecamp and back, over two mountain passes
On most treks, the drive to the basecamp is not much of a highlight. But here's something interesting: many tourists come to Georgia just to do the mountain drives that we do while driving to the basecamp. Because along these drives, you are climbing high mountain passes, which climb above 9,000 ft!
On your onward drive from Tbilisi to Omalo, you drive across the Abano Pass, crossing several vineyards on the way. It's a pleasure to see the countryside of Georgia.
While returning, it is a long 4½ hour journey over bad roads most of the way. The good part is the superb scenery all along, especially the stunning Datvisjvari pass. It is one last time you’ll see the green Georgian grassland.
7. Meeting Russian, Polish, and many other international trekkers
The Omalo-Shatili trail across Atsunta Pass is right at the border between Georgia and Russia. As a result, it attracts several keen trekkers from across the border, making the trail a wonderful place to see trekking culture from other countries. Interacting with them, seeing how they camp, and chatting about their experiences and their viewpoints on trekking is an eye-opening experience.
8. Experiencing the European side of Georgia, at Indian costs
When you land at Liberty Square in Tbilisi, the Capital City of Georgia, you can easily mistake it for a European hub like Berlin or Praguesh . The city is bustling with a sense of modernity, elegance, and polish that you see in the most developed cities of Europe. It's wonderful to experience this modernity, without spending the big Euros that Western Europe costs you.
This modernity wears off to an extent as you dive deeper into the veins of the city. But there is still a sense of urban luxury almost everywhere you go, with modern restaurants, nail salons, supermarkets, and fast cars all along the capital city.
9. The mouth-watering Georgian cuisine
As Indians, we love flavorful food. While most Western countries fall short by a mile in terms of flavours, Georgia sets a completely different precedent. The food here is delicious, and often, it closely resembles Indian cuisine. Even though bread is a part of their staple diet, they stuff their breads with delicious fillings. Some must trie dishes are kinkhali (dumplings), kachapuri (cheese-filled bread), lobio (made with beans).
Not to mention the copious amounts of fruits they grow, right from grapes to pomegranates (which you can literally pluck off the streets), apples and berries, a fruit-lover will never want to leave Georgia.
Leaving Mountains Better
Green Trails is our promise to leave the mountains better. We have removed over 1 lakh kilos of waste left behind by others on trekking trails. Yet this is a small percentage of what we do. Green Trails dives into reducing use of resources, reducing our carbon footprint and bringing about a change in the daily practices of our trekkers too.