Goechala Trek

The trail, though passing through the fringes of the forest is exposed for about half-hour. Midway through the exposed trail, look for a shelter on your right. From here onwards it is a half-hour to the first bridge over the Pha Khola. By the time the trail gets to Pha Khola, you are well into the thick of the forest and the coolness envelopes you at all times. The gently undulating trail climbs gradually.

The next hour and a half is a pleasant walk through the moist jungle until suddenly on your left the Tshushay Khola falls in a series of mini-waterfalls joining the Prek Chu river below. 50 meters later a large iron bridge spans the Tshushay Khola. After the bridge, the trail begins to climb more noticeably.

An hour later, watch for another small cement bridge over the Mentogang Khola (you won’t find a board telling you the name). You are already at 7,100 feet and it is only twenty minutes from here to the log hut of Sachen.

Sachen at 7,400 feet is a small clearing where a single log hut and a shelter on the trail exist. The log hut is a few meters below the trail. The hut has room enough for about 6-7 and a small area to cook. For a larger team, look for the clearing just above the trail opposite the shelter. The Prek Chu river runs below the campsite and is not visible, though you can hear it faintly rushing below.

Take the trail that begins to climb to the left of the bridge. The trail climbs sharply through a mixed oak forest until the wide switchbacks level somewhat half-hour later at the sight of the first rhododendrons. The altitude gain is rapid and the air gets cooler perceptively. Soon the trail climbs to the ridge and stays there until you get to Bakhim another half hour later. From the Prek Chu river, it takes an hour to get to Bakhim. The total distance is only a kilometre but feels a lot longer.

Bakhim has a Forest Rest House and some trekkers like staying at Bakhim – simply for its view of the Yuksom valley. Finding the caretaker is a struggle and most trekkers move on to Tshoka which is another hour away.

Bakhim has a lovely tea stall where the owner dishes out some snacks as well. With a well-deserved rest, start your climb to Tshoka. Follow the trail just behind the Forest Rest House. The trail again climbs in a series of long switchbacks, overlooking Bakhim until forty minutes later it dives around a ridge to move to the other side of the hill.

At over 9,000 feet high, rhododendron trees abound everywhere. The trail gets dark from the overhanging trees and meanders for another ten minutes. It suddenly pops out to a plateau and the trekkers' hut of Tshoka. There’s also a flat camping area to the left of the trekkers' hut. The trekkers' hut is a pretty long wooden building that has four rooms – enough space to house more than 20 trekkers. Alternatively, trekkers can stay at the Forest Rest House slightly uphill.

Spend some time exploring Tshoka. Slightly uphill are the cafes run by the locals. Ask the cafe owners for the keys to the monastery.

Follow the trail as it leads out of Tshoka, cross the small wooden bridge over the pond and head to the monastery. It is a quiet place worthy of a quick visit. There are just a handful of Tibetan families living here.

What will take your breath away is the view of the snow-clad peaks of the Pandim range stretching right behind you – with Mt Pandim dominating the skyline. For most trekkers, this is the view of the day. You can climb a little higher to get wonderful panorama shots of the pond and the peaks.

Like yesterday, climb up to the little pond leading to the monastery and then follow the trail that runs to its right. The trail begins to climb sharply and within minutes Tshoka is a tiny hamlet below you. Red rhododendron trees spring up everywhere. If you are in the season when the flowers bloom (May 1st/2nd week), then the entire slope lights up with fiery red colour. After a stiff climb for about 30 minutes, the trail evens out to a gradual climb.

The trail changes to the one paved over wooden logs. It is a delight with rhododendrons fanning the path. Little wooden benches line either side of the trail – which makes the trail look like it is in a park. Sometimes mist filters in surreally through the rhododendron trees. Even in this magical setting, the trail climbs throughout and trekkers feel the altitude. The log path gives way to a regular stony trail that climbs quickly to Phedang in 20 minutes.

Phedang, at 13,000 feet, is a large clearing with superb views of the snow-clad mountains. A log hut and a few wooden benches dot the landscape. Stop here for lunch and a well-deserved rest. The trail forks at Phedang with one that goes right, leading to Kokchurang.

Take the trail to Dzongri that starts across the clearing. The trail starts to climb immediately along with the dwarf rhododendrons that line the slope. The views start getting better with every step but watch for a few muddy patches on the trail. After about of rain, you need to skip your way around them. It is a ridge climb, so the trail switches between the alternating sides of the hill. Watch for the view change between the Pandim range and the Kabru range. An hour later, they climb tops at a shrine with a multitude of prayer flags. This is the highest point of the day's trek at 13,080 feet.

Take a brief rest at the shrine and follow the trail that gently descends towards Dzongri. For most parts, the trail undulates with the first patches of snow lining the roots of the dwarf rhododendrons around you.

The Dzongri trekkers' hut appears suddenly at the bend in the trail. A gentle clear stream runs by the side of the hut. There are plenty of camping grounds around Dzongri but the hut itself can take in 30 trekkers at a time.

Dzongri is a welcome sight for trekkers after the hard climb from Tshoka. At 12,980 feet trekkers feel the effect of altitude at the Dzongri meadows. Dzongri is a large cauldron, mostly meadows, surrounded in all directions by the mighty peaks of the Kanchenjunga and Pandim ranges. In every direction is a snow peak to be looked at and admired. For most trekkers, Dzongri is a reward on its own. Many finish their trek at Dzongri and head back the way they came.

The day starts with a climb to Dzongri top. Dzongri Top at 13,670 ft, is the highest point from where you get 180-degree panoramic view of the mighty peaks of the Singalila and Kanchenjunga ranges such as Kakthong, Rothang, Kabru South, Kabru North, Kabru Dome, Kanchenjunga range, Pandim, and the Lama Lamini peaks.

Dzongri top is a two hill climb from the Dzongri trekkers' hut. The trek from Dzongri to Dzongri top takes about an hour. The sun rises at 5 AM and you don’t want to miss seeing the first rays of the sun hitting Kanchenjunga. Start your trek at 4.00 AM with torch lights and you reach the top just as the dawn breaks.

As you climb up, the peaks of the Singalila range begin to open up and just at the bend before the top, the Kanchenjunga and its neighbours make their appearance. Witness an inspiring sunrise and spend time watching the mountains changing colours in the sun rays.

Spot Thansing, the destination for the next day, Goechala peaks below you. On the other side, the green rhododendron slopes extend for miles.

Retracing your path to Dzongri takes 30 minutes.

In half an hour, rhododendron shrubs occupy the slopes again. The gentle to medium descent continues for over 2 hours. The rhododendron shrubs suddenly give way to the rhododendron forest. The descent becomes steep and you lose more than 500 ft. The forest is a good place to spot birds. Walkthrough silently and spot birds camouflaged in the browns and greens of the forest. Kokchurang springs up at the end of the descent. Just there, find a route through the forest going right. It goes to Phedang. Kokchurang has a trekker hut but no real place to pitch tents. The Prek Chu river flows next to the trekkers' hut 50 meters away. By the banks of the river, amidst the rocks, 4-5 tents can be pitched. The small campsite though feels lovely. In the evening, expect mist hanging over the river and the tents enveloped in the mist with the sound of the fast river below make it a great camping experience.

The trekker hut at Kokchurang has two big halls on the sides capable of handling 10-12 trekkers each and a central hall which can serve as the cooking area.

From Kokchurang, walk down to the bridge across the Prek Chu river. Spend some time on the bridge experiencing the cool breeze of the river. The water below looks icy blue. On the other bank, you have the rhododendron forest again. They flower in June but at any time, the moss-lined trees with their branches spreading out in all directions make it a fairy tale walk.  There is a trekking trail but no lined path. The gradient increases and it is an ascent throughout. The distance between the bridge and Thansing is 2 km. By midway forests, end and the landscape becomes rocky and barren. At the end of the climb is Thansing – a big meadow. There is a dilapidated trekker hut at the entrance of the flat meadow. The hut can be used as a kitchen but tents would be needed to stay. The open meadow can host any number of tents. You are right in front of Mt Pandim and the left wall of Kanchenjunga here. Thansing can be cold at the night.

You may choose to trek further to Samiti lake and spend an hour there. The trail ascends from Thansing and it is a 45-minute stiff climb to the Samiti lake. Notice the terrain being rocky all through the ascent. The climb suddenly flattens out and the deep blue waters of the lake come into the picture. Move closer to the shore of the lake and the blue does not change.

If it is windy, the lake has waves too. Take a walk around the lake and sit beside its serene waters. The Samiti lakeshores are home to mountain goats and bluebirds which you are most likely to spot.

This is the longest day of the trek and so start your day early at midnight to give you multiple advantages:

– A midnight start ensures that you reach the first viewpoint or the sunrise point right in time to see the first sun rays hitting Kanchenjunga.

– It also makes it easier to walk on the moraines that you find after the sunrise point as the snow is still hard.

 – The probability of getting good views is higher in the mornings.

– Lastly, it gives you enough time to spend at ViewPoint 1 and returns to Samiti by 8 AM, where you get some more time.

The trail to ViewPoint 1 is a moderate ascent. You can break up the ascent into two sections. One, up to Samiti Lake and the next to ViewPoint 1.

The highlight of this day would be the spellbinding view of the sun rising on the Kanchenjunga range. The soft alpenglow on the mountain top is a sight that will stay etched in your mind.

Next, in the early morning reflection in the Samiti Lake. This crisp reflection of the surrounding mountains is something photographers should look out for. Try and time yourself to reach Samiti by 8 AM while returning from ViewPoint 1. This should allow you a good one hour to spend time by the lakeside.

From there, retrace your steps back to Thansing.

Take the diversion to the left inside the forest instead of climbing up to Dzongri. The trail remains mostly flat with small descents and ascents only to switch between mountains. Rhododendron trees line your way all along and the Prek Chu river flows below. Look left and at several places, you get lovely views of Mt Pandim and its neighbours. Phedang is 10 km away and this is one of the longest trails between two known campsites. It takes about 4 hours to reach Phedang.

The first phase is new and interesting. The trail goes on the flank of the mountain all along and you move from one mountain to another to another maintaining a constant altitude of 12,000 ft. Kokchurang, Phedang and most of the trail, are all at 12,000 ft!

From Phedang you retrace the descending trail to Tshoka. The day's trek takes about 8-9 hours on average.

Retrace your way from Tshoka to Yuksom. It's much faster and easier than your trek up. Sachen comes up quickly being a pure descent. From Sachen, the trail goes up and down generally losing altitude. The last stretch has a few climbs which make you wonder but it's soon over and you find yourself back in the friendly Yuksom neighbourhood.

Leave Yuksom early morning and reach NJP / Bagdogra by 4.00 – 5.00 PM.